Kassos (Kàssos, Κάσος) is a small rocky island, steeply raising from the Karpathian sea, at the southernmost part of the Dodecanese islands with a population of 1.088 inhabitants. It is 18 km long with a coast long about 55 km and covers a total area of 64 sq. km. It is located very close to the shores of Karpathos (about 3 nmi) and the eastern part of Crete (26 nmi). The highest peak is Prionas Mt. at 545 m. while there are 5 inhabited settlements on the island. Fry (Frì, Φρύ) is the capital and harbor while Agia Marina, built on a slope above Fry, is the biggest village.

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This small island has a long, rich history, with traces dating back to the Minoan Period and a strong naval tradition. It is estimated that during the times of the Greek Revolution, Kassos population numbered about 12.000 people. The island paid a heavy price for its generous involvement in the Revolution. In the spring of 1824, Ottoman naval forces destroyed the islands and its villages completely, killing about 1.000 people, raping and bringing to slavery the women and children.

The islands is full of beautiful churches, scattered in all around its territory, and impressive captain houses. There is a number of beautiful beaches of any type and many coves to explore. The locals are open ad warm. They’re famous for their dairy products and their traditional recipes that combine tastes of the Mediterranean with spices from the East.

Kassos is regularly connected by ferry and by air with Rhodes, Karpathos and Crete.

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1. Entries to the island
2. A short guide to Rhodes (I)
3. Karpathos: An island off the beaten track

Kastellorizo (Greek: Καστελλόριζο) or Megisti (Greek: Μεγίστη) is a tiny border island at the most eastern point of Greece, very close to the Turkish coast (3 km). It is part of the Dodecanese group of islands distant about 110 km (68 mi) on the east of Rhodes. The current population is 450 permanent residents but during the end of 19th the island bloomed arriving at about 10.000 residents as it was the only safe harbor on the trade route from Anatolia. The decay of the island’s economy coincides with the decline of the Ottoman Empire and the deportation of the Anatolian Greeks in 1923. Currently about 8.000 people that originate from the island, live abroad, mainly in Australia.

The picturesque Megisti (or Chora) is the only settlement, located at the northeast end of the island. It is a tranquil village, built on a slope above and around the natural harbor, full of brightly coloured Greek island houses, two storey neoclassical mansions, churches, and quiet alleys. Buildings of a greater importance are:

The Church of Saints Agios Konstandinos and Eleni (built in 1835),- this is the cathedral of Kastelorizo, an edifice evidently inspired by the gothic tradition. Tradition has it that on this very site St. Helena herself had had a first smaller church built after she was saved from a formidable tempest on her way to the Holy Land in quest of the Cross. What is certain is that the foundations of the actual constructions are laid into the site of an early christian basilica. Its roof has been made to rest on twelve monolithic granite pillars carried all the way to Kastelorizo from the temple of Apollo at Patara (Lycia, in Asia Minor), on rafts. Meanwhile, what once was the temple of Apollo at Patara has been converted into a Christian church dedicated to St. Nicholas. This is where on that saint’s day, many Greeks originating from Asia Minor and other places of the world converge to attend a mass officiated by the very Patriarch of Constantinople in person.

The Palazzina della Delegazione, a single storey remnant of the former fascist occupation, on the east side of the harbor, erected in 1926 by the Italian architect Florestano Di Fausto.

The nearby former mosque dating from the second half of the 18th century and which has been now restored and re-opened as a museum (2007).

The main square, Plateia Ethelondon Kastellórizou, lies at center of the eastern side of the settlement, near the vessel dock. Walking along the opposite side of the harbor you have a clear view towards Pera Meria (the western dock), and the monasteries of Profitis Elias and Aghia Triada. A patway above the eastern side quay leads you to the remains of the Castle of the Knights (14th century) that include the curtain wall, a part of a square tower, remains of a cylindrical tower at the east corner, and toward the sea another cylindrical tower. A Doric inscription, carved in the rock, attests to the existence of an earlier fortress here during the classical times.

Following the steps on the eastern side of the settlement, you will reach the suburb of Horafia and the Cathedral of Agios Konstandinos and Eleni we referred earlier. Further east there is a small bay known as Mandraki, the secondary harbour of the island.

West of the town, beyond the summit of the island known as Vigla (270 m), stands Paleokastro (old castle), the island’s ancient acropolis. This fortified elevation has classical origins with a rectangular plan measuring 60 x 80 m. Inside the castle there is an ancient tower, built with square limestone blocks, and large water cisterns. Carved on the base of the castle there is also a Doric inscription, dating back to the 4th or 3rd centuries BC, with references to Megiste (the ancient name of Kastelorizo) and its dependence on Rhodes. On the east side there are remnants of a gateway, or Propylaea.

Megisti as it was named from the ancient times, has important traces that go back into the time. It has been inhabited since the Neolithic era. The island bloomed during the Mycenaic period, as testified by the findings brought into light by excavations. The Dorians later conquered the island and built the acropolis of Paleokastro. In 530 BC Megisti is dominated by the Rhodians and follows the same historic route with the capital of the Dodecanese. Romans and Byzantine later conquer the island, while in 1306 the island falls in the hands of the Knights of Saint John. In 1440 the island was conquered by the Sultan of Egypt. In 1512 Turkish prevail in the island. Their possession lasted until 1912 when the island was occupied by the Italians. After the end of the WWII the island has finally joined the Greek State.

Today the island is a fine vacation spot, an ideal choice for those that seek a relaxed holiday in a beautiful unspoiled island with crystal clear waters, warm hospital people with great food, super places to stay and a real feeling of discovery. This tiny but beautiful island was chosen for the set of the Oscar awarded film Mediterraneo (by Gabriele Salvatore) and has inspired artistes like David Gilmour from the legendary group Pink Floyd. A boat trip to the astonishing Blue Grotto (Galazia spilià), a luminous sea cavern will offer you a lifetime experience.

Related posts:

1. The Dodecanese islands
2. Kassos
3. Archeological sites on the island of Rhodes

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1. The Dodecanese islands
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The Dodecanese is complex of over 163 Aegean islands and islets, of which only 26 are inhabited, situated at the most eastern part of the Greek Archipelago, at the borders of Europe. You will find here a wonderful blend of architectural styles of eastern and western cultures. The islands have a long, rich, convoluted past that starts way back, from the Mythological ages. Almost every island, even the smallest ones, are signed with traces of the glorious history: prehistoric sites, classical era temples, hellenistic ruins, medieval castles, byzantine churches and monasteries.

The modern prefecture of the Dodecanese is a subdivision of the South Aegean periphery, covering an area of 2.714 km² with 200.452 inhabitants. The most important islands are:

The seat of the prefecture and the most important, historically and economically, is the island of Rhodes (Rodos, Ρόδος) and its capital city with the same name. The island of Kos is also an important center and an attractive tourist destination.

The Dodecanese islands have been inhabited since pre-Minoan times, and by the Archaic period Rhodes and Kos had emerged as the dominant islands within the group. The distance from Athens city-state gave the islands considerable autonomy. They were, for the most part, free to prosper unencumbered. Following Alexander the Great’s death, Ptolemy I of Egypt ruled the Dodecanese. The Dodecanese islanders were the first to convert into Christianity. St Paul, made two journeys to the archipelago, and St John was banished to Patmos, where he had his revelation.

The early Byzantine period saw the islands prosper, but by the 7th century AD they were plundered by a string of invaders. By the early 14th century the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, or Knights Hospitallers became the rulers of almost all the Dodecanese, building mighty fortifications, but not mighty enough to withstand the Ottoman attacks that captured Rhodes in 1522. The Italians in 1912 invaded and occupied the islands along with other possessions of the Ottoman Empire (Libya). After the Italian surrender of 1943, the islands became a battleground for Allied and German forces, with much suffering inflicted upon the population. The Dodecanese were formally returned to Greece after the end of the World War II.

The Dodecanese have a very rich flora and fauna. Numerous fossil findings show the interesting history of evolution of the animal species on the relatively isolated ecosystem of the islands. A prime example are the findings of the dwarf elephants in Tilos.

Due to their geographical position, the islands are a stopover for migrating birds. Tens of millions of these birds visit the islands each spring and autumn. The numerous caves, crevices in the rocks and high rocky formations, a typical geomorphology of the islands, serve as refuges for rare species of birds such as birds of prey, small hawks, wild pigeons, herons and cormorants. The smaller islands where both humans and animal meat eaters are absent, serve as refuges for ancient species, which have disappeared from other areas. Unique plant and animal species can be observed (especially reptiles and invertebrate), remnants of an isolated evolution and adaptation to the unique conditions.

Not surprisingly, there is a rich sea life in the Dodecanese seas. The endangered specie of the sperm whale has its home in the deep sea waters on the east of Rhodes and Karpathos, the rare Mediterranean seal finds refuge in the coastal caves, together with the dolphins, turtles, many varieties of fish, molluscs and crustaceans, form the rich ecosystem of the Dodecanese sea.

Every single island and islet can be considered a unique natural museum. Forests and bush lands of pine, cypress, wild olive, cedar, mastic, arbutus bush and holly together with a variety of annual and long lasting turf, aromatic plants (oregano, thyme, lavender), carob and olive trees, all make for a rich mosaic of plant varieties. As an example, the tiny island of Kasos boasts about 450 different plant species, which accounts more than the number of plants in the whole country of Holland.

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1. Lipsi islands
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Symi, for all its tiny size, has always featured prominently in Greek history and mythology. The first documented inhabitants were the Carians, then the Leleges and after these the Phoenicians, fabled for their great seafaring prowess. The port of Niborios, 2km northwest of Yialos, was once a great commercial centre and features remains of a fine temple dedicated to Zeus.

Symi has also been mentioned by Pliny, Homer, Herodotus, Thucicides and Aelianus, referring to the island by many ancient names such as Simeia, Metapontis and Aegli. Symi was famed for boat-building at and her peak was launching over 500 ships per year.

Glaucus, the famed mythological swimmer was reputedly a son of Symi as was the warrior, King Nereus who led three ships from Symi to the Trojan Wars, quite an achievement considering that the “megalo” island of Rhodes could muster only nine.

Today, there are less than 2,500 islanders left here, scattered throughout the main small towns of Yialos, Pedi, Niborios, Nanou, Marathounta and Panormitis, and they are known for their great hospitality and warmth towards the visitor.

During World War Two, the islanders put up strong resistance to the German occupation. When the advancing Allies forced the Germans to flee, the retreating Germans detonated a huge ammunition dump up in the old town of Horio, destroying dozens of houses and businesses and causing the inhabitants to settle anew further down the mountainside. Horio still exists but is nothing other than a skeleton of its former glory.

With the advent of the sponge industry, Symi prospered greatly until severe over fishing caused the income from this to decline to the point of no return in the mid-20th century. Symi now trades heavily upon its scenic beauty and relaxed, laid back atmosphere although income from the day-trippers totally outweighs that available from longer stay residents.

Work is underway to construct a reservoir in the foothills to conserve as much water as possible. Many islanders view this as a mixed blessing. Symi’s chronic shortage of water has limited the islands tourist capabilities to a handful of hotels and guesthouses, allowing expansion to stay under control as it were. The building of the reservoir will more than likely cause new, larger hotels to be constructed with the resulting increase in revenue, at the cost of the peace and tranquillity that Symi is so famed for.

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1. Relaxed Charms of Symi
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No trip to Symi would be complete without a visit to its wonderful monastery of Taxiarchis Michail Panormitis. The monastery is situated on the sea front of the tiny village of Panormitis, on the southern coast, protected by a narrow inlet that opens out into a wide harbour and small, empty beach.

The monastery is set against a stunning backdrop of pine-covered mountain-sides which only seem to add to the feeling of remoteness and soliotude. The best view of the monastery is from the decks of the approaching ferries as they manoeuvre to berth on the jetty.

The monastery sounds a welcome to the ferries as they arrive and depart, something I’ve not experienced before on any Greek island.

The 18th-century monastery is a large building, Venetian in style, with its high, baroque bell tower and the long white façade of the main buildings stretching away on either side of the main gateway. The inner courtyard has its own church along with some stunning hokhlaki courtyards that must have taken years to plan and lay. The church contains wonderful chandeliers as well as a silver-leafed representation of Archangel Michael, patron saint of Symi and protector of sailors. There is also a small museum adjacent and you may climb the steps to the tiered rows of cells that still house the monks but are now also available for travellers to rent on a nightly basis.

The inner courtyards are ablaze with exotic trees and plants and present a quiet sanctuary for those contemplative souls.

The two rows of buildings either side of the gate were constructed by the Italians after World War Two and are in first class condition. Panormitis has however succumbed to the tourist trade albeit in a small way and these art deco buildings now contain up-market holiday flats.

The only way to get here is via a ferry or excursion boat. If you are already on the island, Panormitis can be reached by road from Symi Town in an hour or so or walkers can tackle the route and expect a stiff, six-hour hike over very rough ground.

Surprisingly, there are no photographic restrictions within the monastery other than inside the church. Entrance is free and expect to require an hour to see the museum, church and cells.

Elsewhere at Panormitis, you may find half a dozen yachts at anchor in its sheltered little bay, guarded by the beautifully restored windmill on the western headland. The small beach is composed of fine sand and was virtually deserted. A few fishing boats bobbed up and down in the harbour, dwarfed by the inter-island ferry. Peace and tranquillity reign here, and long may it continue.

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